Review: Seersucker Restaurant and Catering in Gretna
March 30, 2017 - Picnic Time
When it comes to a po-boy, there are verified classics — installed with boiled oysters, fry beef dripping in gravy or shrimp with remoulade — though in a past few years, a city has seen new versions emerge with artistic twists. Such sandwiches have come from Killer Poboys, Bevi Seafood Co. and The Sammich, that now is shuttered.
At Seersucker Restaurant Catering, a infrequent lunchtime mark and catering operation in Gretna, there’s a incursion into dainty po-boy land, though a group doesn’t go full throttle, instead balancing a menu with many normal versions.
Owner and cook Jonathan Hostetler and business partner Blayne Bergeron non-stop a grill in 2015. What was creatively illusory as a full-scale Southern-inspired catering operation also came to offer artistic po-boys, platters and prohibited lunch specials. Christmas lights adorn a garage-like space and there’s a playful, gentle feel to a kitschy naval and Louisiana-themed decorations on a walls.
The group incorporates locally sourced mixture wherever possible. Po-boy bread is from Hi-Do Bakery in Terrytown. Sausage patties are from Schexnayder’s Acadian Foods in Kenner, and pickles and salsas are done in-house.
In a boiled immature tomato and shrimp remoulade po-boy, a beauty lies in a details. Tomatoes are dripping in buttermilk before removing a healthy dredge and attack a fryer, and a remoulade is brighter and toothier than most, crowded of capers. Small plump shrimp are preserved in apple cider vinegar, lemon and sugar brine and detonate with a spicy and somewhat honeyed flavor.
The 3 Little Pigs po-boy facilities a burning sausage patty, crispy strips of bacon and as most sliced Black Forest ham as one would find in any East Coast deli sandwich. The miscellany is draped in melted American cheese, that oozes out a edges of a sandwich, giving it a decadent, diner-style patty warp allure.
Classic sandwiches re-imagined as po-boys embody a roasted turkey and avocado BLT, dressed with shredded lettuce, mayonnaise and crumbled bacon bits.
Plate lunches run a progression from boiled duck with waffles to hamburger steaks and smothered duck thighs. A inexhaustible apportionment of boiled trout came with a side of cheddar cheese-topped jalapeno cornbread and tawny tartar salsa that carried a sea kick. The fish was baked perfectly, and wasn’t too heavily breaded or greasy though tasty and somewhat murky in a appreciative way. The season of a jalapeno cornbread was nice, though a bread was dry on one revisit and didn’t do most for a plate.
I was soft with a onion rings, where a thinly-shaved rings are smashed and boiled until deliciously greasy and crispy-edged. Coleslaw facilities a lovely brew of celery, carrots, shredded cabbage, scallions and celery seed. It is easily dressed though still packs that deliciously creamy, picnic-time mayonnaise flavor.
For dessert, there’s classical banana cream pudding, a tawny lenience surfaced with vanilla wafers. It is honeyed and simple, an instance of a Southern plate that’s been polished and needs no tweaking.
The restaurant’s name is a curtsy to a larger South, and while a food during Seersucker takes a witty proceed to several dishes, there’s a good appreciation for some of a regions’ time-honored culinary traditions.